September 14, 2016
ALBINI GROUP A/W 2017-18
Albini Group, leading manufacturer of fabrics for high-end shirts, presents at Milano Unica the new collections designed for its various brands: Albini 1876, Albini, donna, Thomas Mason, David & John Anderson and Albiate 1830. Fabrics in new colours, yarns, qualities, prints and patterns that will inspire specialised shirt makers, tailors and designer labels for Autumn-Winter 2017-18.
Albini 1876, innovative yarns to create sophisticated and contemporary fabrics
The Autumn-Winter 2017-18 collection of Albini 1876 starts above everything from a profound stylistic research by the designers into the yarns, to achieve ideal fabrics to create shirts to wear for any occasion. The colour passes through the raw materials. The Albini 1876 collection came to life with researched and innovative yarns such as chenille and wool, linen or multi-colour mélange.
Formal, Contemporary, Leisure. These are the three major elements of a modern and contemporary collection, which are accentuated through the fabrics and the quality of Made in Italy. The colour palette is very transversal but the real protagonist is the mélange, which creates dusty and soft effects, declined in ethnic colors of spices in washed out versions and military tones. Inevitably also the grey, blue, white/blue and white/black.
The Formal fabrics are dedicated to specialist shirtmakers and to the whole world of made to measure, to realise reinterpreted classic shirts for a refined, modern sartorial taste that is never ordinary. This is the world of fabrics “par excellence” with which to create the classic shirt, in which is evidenced the great importance of the structures and the great attention to research and technicality. For the first time, fabrics in mélange and mouliné cotton become a part of more formal collection of the Group. The designs while maintaining classical canons, acquire movement both to the eye and to the touch, thanks to the structures and the yarns. Even the Piumino, among the icons of Albini 1876, is reinterpreted in mélange versions, to create innovative plays on light. The printed fabrics continue to have great importance in the collection, as well as the more classical stripes – now moved through the use of specialist yarns or small structures – and checks in small dimensions.
The Contemporary fabrics are ideal for creating modern shirts, made with noble raw materials and extreme attention to detail, and are embellished with special yarns, the result of great technical and design research. The mélange is the undisputed protagonist, alongside the lightweight flannels. Even the plain fabrics are mostly enriched by movement and by weaves with all-over structures. Light colours become very important even in the winter collections, developed with the use of particular yarns that give fluidity, for example through the use of Modal combined with cotton or of Tencel, a natural yarn that comes from the eucalyptus, from the warm handle with relaxed aspect, ideal for unisex shirts with metropolitan taste. The Piumino is renewed for the first time with yarns such as wool and silk, for the creation of a shirt that is simultaneously warm and lightweight. No shortage of micro floral or geometric prints on dark backgrounds such as black and blue or mélange.
The Leisure fabrics are characterised by a very high level of research and principally made of special yarns to give life to gauzy linens, flannels, velvets and wool cloths, also for some jacket weights. The historical fabrics of Albini collections are reinterpreted in a modern way, through the use of washed out yarn. The stripes are renewed thanks to chenille and bouclé effects that give the fabrics relief and movement. Also the sports flannels are made with blends of yarns for wavy fabrics where there is an interesting use of chenille. The yarn-dyed velvet is a new addition and there are design developments in chambray, false plains, check and regimental stripes. The Flanellino or winter linen is developed in mélange tones combined with brighter colours such as yellow and turquoise. Very on trend are the mélange fabrics with all-over embroidery of floral inspiration. The prints, on the other hand, are inspired by a pyjama taste, with cashmere designs, Christmas and soft effects.
Albini, donna: fabrics for women’s shirts with a strong personality
The Albini,donna collection, Autumn/Winter 2017-18 respecting the DNA of Albini Group, is made from a careful selection of the most precious raw materials and a manufacturing tradition of excellence combined with Italian creativity. The collection of shirting fabrics for women is very complete, and approaches the world of women’s shirts either through classical bases reinterpreted and enriched with plays on structures or through innovative and researched fabrics. A collection developed using different raw materials ranging from cotton to silk, from Tencel to wool, also Cupro, a cellulosic fibre characterised by brightness and elasticity, derived from the filaments that are located around the cotton seed. The colour palette includes whites, natural tones, soft colours in shades of powder and beige, blue and navy, black and intense colours such as green, blue and burgundy.
A collection rich in content, developed across several themes:
– Whites – is the historical heritage of the shirts, the white shirt that is a must in any woman’s wardrobe. The proposal varies from fabrics in precious Giza 87 cotton voile, stretch poplin through to satin;
– Colour palettes – fabrics offered in soft, feminine colours like powder and beige for shirts in cotton or chic and refined silk;
– Stripes & Textures – fabrics moved by structures and dobby also stripe designs on neutral tones and mélange;
– Alternative stripes – a reinterpretation of the stripe, made more defined due to the intense colours and dark bases;
– Active – fabrics for masculine style shirts in stretch versions, made more feminine thanks to the inclusion of touches of colour;
– Check – very sophisticated designs inspired by tartans in grays, blacks and blue;
– Fil coupé and Jacquard – fabrics embellished with cashmere jacquard ‘placed’ designs that create elegant designs, lace effects, designs of concentric circles, double-faced fabrics, flowers and foliage on Prince of Wales grounds;
– Special yarns – this is the more experimental part of the collection, which includes nubby bouclé yarns and also wool to create effects of false plain and subtle stripes;
– Luxury & Sparkly – for the evening, the most elegant mélange flannel fabrics are made from yarns that contain small silver specks, and touches of light in the weft through threads of gold and silver;
– Imprint – the world of printed fabrics is always more special thanks to flocked prints, feminine prints to polka dots and foliage patterns in bronze and silver and also corrosion effects.
Thomas Mason: a colourful winter with precious fabrics in Egyptian cotton
Thomas Mason collection for Autumn/Winter 2017-18 is synonymous with uniqueness, moreover the highest excellence of Egyptian cotton yarns for extremely elegant and precious fabrics, developed in sophisticated colours.
The research for Thomas Mason continues in the world of prints, which are gaining more and more importance in the collection: floral prints are offered in two-fold cotton or cotton and cashmere, for an innovative shirt, which at the same time is precious and pleasant to wear.
A collection in which, even in the cooler season, the colour is still present, in a blend of refined tones and mélange colours that enhance the concept of colour combined with precious fabrics.
The theme of the ceremony is enriched with pleated grey mélange fabrics, suitable for a shirt for elegant occasions to be worn in a more casual and informal manner.
Contemporary man is in search of classicism in the shirt, especially created with the most precious fabrics made with the noblest yarn counts such as 140/2, 120/3 and 120/2 poplin and twill with simple and bold patterning.
Very important are the stripes, which are extremely classic or regimental or with unusual combinations, always of high class. Protagonists of the collection are the checks, very sophisticated and developed on fine and precious fabrics. The collection of Thomas Mason also includes a part of fabrics for casual and sports shirts, but high-end: two-fold fabrics and precious quality bases in pure Egyptian cotton or cotton and cashmere, for special garments which acquire silky hand-feel thanks to special finishes which remain over time. Among the on trend designs are also the tartan, revisited in a modern way with washed-out fabrics.
Thomas Mason enriches its proposal of stock service with the renovated Journey collection, that presents a proposal of innovative made in Italy fabrics, extremely resistant to creasing.
A collection of fabrics ideal for those who wish to have a shirt that stays and looks fresh and smooth, all day long, or even after a long travel in the luggage.
Thanks to a special finishing that makes the fibres parallel and lends them a particular brightness, Journey fabric maintains the form and the original colour and a neat look, without having to take any extra care. Tested before ironing, these fabrics have been tested beyond grade 3 tables of
AATCC (American Association Textile Chemical Colorist), that evaluate the characteristics of “smoothness appearance”, easy to iron, a value that is retained even after several washes.
With Journey, the fresh and smooth all-day shirt, enjoy the journey: the adventure begins!
David & John Anderson: maximum perfection in shirting fabrics
The peak of perfection of fabrics for shirts. The most famous brand of British shirts, acquired by Albini Group in 1992, is the “haut de gamme” interpreter of the Albini Group ranges: fabrics made with the finest yarns, derived from the most precious cottons in the world.
The unique know-how of David & John Anderson succeeds to transform the finest cotton yarn into a fabric both soft and silky to the touch, studying the rhythm between yarn and loom, modulating the speed to be able to weave the fine yarns in Giza 45 .
Golden Jubilee 330/4, Millennium Star 330/3, 300/3 Great Mogul, Cullinan 300/2 and 240/3 Sancy. The five most splendid diamonds in the world give their name to “The Diamonds” by David & John Anderson, the most precious cotton fabrics collection ever produced.
Albiate 1830: research on yarns and fabrics for researched casual shirts
Albiate 1830 the brand recognised internationally for its authority in the world of fabrics for sport shirts and denim, presents for Autumn/Winter 2017-18 a collection developed around three main themes – Sports, Jacquard, and Denim – all crossed by five inspirations:
1. NOT ONLY COTTON, not only traditional cotton, but indigo/washed-out fabric, mouliné cotton or blends of wool.
2. NOT ORDINARY YARNS, the widest research in yarns to create alternative fabrics.
3. NOT ONLY SHIRTS, ideal fabrics for jackets, trousers, waistcoats for a sophisticated total look.
4. NOT ONLY BLUE, but blue approached to the military tones and shades of burgundy.
5. NOT ONLY MAN, textiles created and inspired by the feminine world.
1. Five different themes run through the Sport Line: black & white with three-dimensional-looking structures, nuances and check; Preppy Fusion, or flannels in soft colors; Buffalo Story, characterised by macro checks in red and black tones and fabrics with micro structures; Blue & Brown Nature, fabrics with nuances of wood, especially with nubby yarns combined with shades of navy and airforce blues and finally the most bold patterning of the Jacquard. The most widely used bases are both flannels and emerised poplins, with twills made from nubby yarns, as well as fabrics made with raw fibres. American-inspired fabrics such as Oxfords give a heavier aspect while the mélange wool is designed to create casual and cool outerwear. Prints on velvet bases are inspired by the world of floral tapestry, in shades of khaki, blue, grey and brown. Even the yarns are printed and are used to create bases with dobby and fil coupé effects.
2. The Jacquard is characterised by the use of mélange yarns and fil coupé effects. The jacquard designs range from classic to macro camouflage, finishing with the floral fantasies. Silk and nubby yarns enrich the collection, as well as the Dual Light Jacquard fabric, which can be used both for the front and the reverse faces.
3. The Denim represents a substantial part of Albiate collection for Autumn/Winter 2017-18 and covers the entire panorama of shirting fabrics and not only in the indigo world. The great research of the designers of the Brand led to the creation of innovative constructions with special yarns, thanks to the use of wool or yarn Tencel/wool for warmer quality bases; raw and nubby yarns allow the creation of more fashionable and rustic fabrics. Important is the part of jacquard and indigo printing, developed through multiple bases with novelty fil coupé effects in the first case and corrosion fantasies in the second case. The part in sports indigo is enriched with finer and finer yarns to create new muslins and new lightweight yarn dyed flannels. The collection also features some variants of fabrics with Japanese special selvedge denim. Not to miss the fabrics printed on flannel bases both light and with more structure, from the micro-patterns to a bandana theme.